specifications

Key Specifications
Specifications : 6.12 TCA
Emission Compliance : BS IIICompliant *
Configuration : 6 Cylinder, In line
Valves/Cylinder : 4
Displacement (cc) : 7118
Bore (mm) : 105
Stroke (mm) : 137
Combustion System : Direct Injection
Injection System : VE Mechanical
Aspiration : Turbo Intercooler
Max Power Output Kw (hp) @ rpm : 157 (210) @2200
Peak Torque N-m @rpm : 880@1400
Compression Ratio : 16.1:1
* BS IV version also available

The MAXXFORCE ® engine

At the core of Mahindra Navistar trucks' high performance is the world-renowned MAXXFORCE® engine. In terms of product configuration and component technology, the new MAXXFORCE® engines are some of the most modern engines in the HCV segment in India. But, there's a lot more than just modern components that make MAXXFORCE® a force to reckon with.

the birth of a legend

12M BS3 IL MECH

Applications:
Intercity - 45 / 40 seats City - 49 seats Mofussil - 65 seats Staff / School - 66 seats One / Two door(s) - ahead of front axle / wheelbase / rear overhang
Engine:
H Series - 6 cylinder BS 3 turbocharged intercooled diesel
Maximum Power:
160 hp (118 kw) @ 2400 rpm
Maximum Torque:
550 nm (56 mkg) @ 1500 - 1700 rpm
Gearbox:
6 speed overdrive synchromesh
Clutch:
353 mm dia single plate dry type
Rear Axle:
Fully floating, single reduction hypoid axle
Front Suspension:
Shackle suspension / rubber ended leaf spring
Rear Suspension:
Shackle suspension / air suspension
Steering:
Integral Power Steering
Brakes:
Full air brakes
Wheelbase:
6200 mm
Overall Length:
12000 mm
Tyres:
10R20 option - 10.0 x 20 Nylon
GVW:
16200 kgs
Seats:
65
66
49
45
40

3118XP


Applications:
Market load, construction, cement, Tankers
Engine:
HA135LT3
Power:
180 hp @ 2400 rpm
Torque:
550 nm @ 1500 - 2100 rpm
Clutch:
15" facing dia clutch with superior lining material & booster
Transmission:
ZF S6 36 FGR 8.51
Suspension:
Semi elliptical laminated multileaf
Cabin:
Factory built G45 Cowl
Tyre:
10.00 x 20 - 16 PR Nylon - radial option avialable
Max speed:
76 kmph
Gradeability:
15.03%
GVW:
31000 kgs
Wheelbase:
5200 mm
Loading span:
24.5 feet

Consult your service manual for a chart of specific values and pinouts to check against, which should help you narrow down the problem to a specific wire or sensor. This chart is typical.

Antilock Quick Test Check Sheet Using Rotunda 60-pin EEC-IV Breakout Box 0 14-00322 or equivalent
Item To Be Tested Ignition Mode Measure Between Pins Tester Scale/Range Specification Pinpoint Test
Power Feed
Battery Check off batt. Terminals volts 10 minimum
ABS ECU Power on 14 + 1 volts 10 minimum DTC B 1318
Pump Motor Power off 2 + 1 volts 10 minimum DTC C 1095
Valve Power off 13 + 1 volts 10 minimum DTC C 1266
Sensor Resistance
LF Sensor Resistance off 15 + 16 K ohms 1.28-1.92 K ohms A
RF Sensor Resistance off 20 + 7 K ohms 1.28-1.92 K ohms B
LR Sensor Resistance off 17 + 18 K ohms 1.28-1.92 K ohms C
RR Sensor Resistance off 4 + 19 K ohms 1.28-1.92 K ohms D
Sensor Continuity to Ground
LF to Ground off 15 + 1 continuity no continuity A
RF to Ground off 20 + 1 continuity no continuity B
LR to Ground off 17 + 1 continuity no continuity C
RR to Ground off 4 + 1 continuity no continuity D
Sensor Output Voltage
Rotate Wheels at One Revolution Per Second
LF Sensor Output off 15 + 16 AC mV > 100 mV A
RF Sensor Output off 20 + 7 AC mV > 100 mV B
LR Sensor Output off 17 + 18 AC mV > 100 mV C
RR Sensor Output off 4 + 19 AC mV > 100 mV D
ABS Warning Lamp Check on 22 + 1 volts 10V minimum E
Stoplamp Switch Check
Brake Pedal Applied off 9 + 1 volts 10 minimum
Brake Pedal Released off 9 + 1 continuity no continuity

Read more: ABS Brakes Troubleshooting - How to Troubleshoot Anti Lock Brakes Problems - Popular Mechanics

LIGHTS OUT
Your ABS light is on. Now what? First, be sure it really is the ABS light and not the light that indicates an issue with your normal service brakes. If you do have a conventional brake issue, like low pedal or grinding noises, this is the wrong Saturday Mechanic for you. Be sure your brakes have adequate lining life, aren't frozen up and are completely free of air. By the way, if you ever need to replace your brake fluid, try as hard as you can to avoid getting air into the ABS controller. It's difficult to bleed, and many require the use of a scan tool to bleed at all. (The scan tool has a function that cycles the pump and valves to move air out of internal passages that can't be bled properly otherwise.)

If the light really is the ABS warning, the first thing to try is to cycle the ignition key off and back on. It's like rebooting your computer—and just maybe whatever transient glitch confused the ABS controller has passed and all is well. If the condition repeats, you need to do some poking and prodding.

You have two options when your ABS light stays on. The first one is to find a shop with a scan tool that will talk to your ABS controller. The dealer will have one, as will some aftermarket shops. For a modest service fee ($50 to $100), a technician will interrogate your ABS controller and look for a trouble code stored in memory. This code will at least give you some idea of where to look.

Read more: ABS Brakes Troubleshooting - How to Troubleshoot Anti Lock Brakes Problems - Popular Mechanics




Over the river and through the woods was more dangerous back when cars had crummy bias-ply tires, rear-wheel drive and ordinary brakes. So, tonight you feel confident driving home through several inches of freshly fallen snow after a sumptuous holiday dinner. Your front-drive car has excellent all-season tires and ABS (antilock braking system)—although the ABS light has been on since you banzai'd the berm at the end of the driveway an hour ago. This may explain the loss of steering control when you're slowing down for a corner. Like this downhill turn, right ... there, as you blow straight past it with the wheels skidding and the steering cranked over hard against the stop.

ABS has become pretty much standard equipment on most vehicles. Sensors tell a computer when a wheel stops rotating, which indicates—at least when the vehicle still has forward speed—that the brakes have overpowered the available traction at that particular wheel. The computer then directs a hydraulic valve to release some brake fluid pressure to the wheel to let it rotate again. This process repeats many times per second until the vehicle stops or you lift your foot off the brake pedal. The ABS computer does a power-on self test every time you cycle the ignition. If it finds it's lacking data, or a hydraulic pump or valve isn't responding, it illuminates the ABS warning light on the dash. ABS relies on a properly operating conventional brake system. If the ABS packs up, you should still have normal, unassisted braking, so it's safe to continue your journey.


Read more: ABS Brakes Troubleshooting - How to Troubleshoot Anti Lock Brakes Problems - Popular Mechanics


But if you'd like to tear into it yourself and maybe find something simple, you'll need a service manual specific to your car or truck, and simple shop tools, including a high-impedance multimeter. The service manual is extremely important—if you can't get a paper manual, try subscribing to alldatadiy.com for service data you can download.

On some vehicles, you can access diagnostic trouble codes stored in the computer without using a scan tool. Usually this means pulling a connector and shorting two pins with a small jumper. The ABS warning light will blink on and off in a pattern, corresponding to a trouble code or lack thereof. Obviously, you'll need a shop manual to attempt this. Odds are you won't be able to talk the service manager at the dealer into letting you photocopy his manual—but it's worth a try. Much of this data is available online—check popularmechanics.com/autodata for suggestions on where to look for service manuals.

Let's say you don't have the trouble code and no information to go on other than an illuminated ABS light. You did check the fuse for the ABS unit, right? This fuse may be in the fuse panel inside the passenger compartment or underhood. Let's not skip the obvious.

Fuse okay? Check the service manual for the voltage and resistance values on various pins and sensors. The main harness to the ABS controller is one place you'll be checking, so while it's apart, give it a shot of aerosol contact cleaner. Inspect carefully for any signs of corrosion—remember that the signals traveling down some of these wires are only millivolts and almost any resistance is a major impediment. If you can, check the resistance across the wheel speed sensors.

If the ABS controller looks A-Okay, and unplugging and reinserting the main harness didn't help, it's time to eyeball the wheel speed sensors—especially if your ABS issue started right after a trip through that snowbank at the mall or after a high-speed trip down a gravel road. You may have damaged the wiring leading to the ABS sensors or even the tone wheels or sensors themselves. Tone wheel? The ABS controller needs to know how fast each wheel is rotating. Somewhere on each wheel bearing assembly or axle is a toothed wheel, and there's a magnetic pickup positioned immediately next to it. (Exception: Some rwd vehicles use a three-channel system with the tone wheel built into the rear differential.) Because this assembly is out in the open, it's prone to damage from foreign objects.

Loosen the lug nuts or bolts, block the opposite wheel and jack up the car. (You pickup truck owners may be able to crawl under and check.) Inspect the wheel speed sensor's wiring harness and the sensor itself. Some sensors are integrated fairly well into the hub and aren't prone to damage. Others are simply bolted to stamped brackets. If the sensor is loose or missing, or the wires are damaged, you've found your problem. Check the air gap between the sensor and the tone wheel if it's adjustable—the shop manual will give you a specific distance the sensor is supposed to be spaced from the tone wheel and directions on how to properly set it. On rare occasions, the tone wheel itself will show damage, such as missing teeth or teeth damaged by road debris. On front-wheel-drive cars, this usually means replacing the stub axle, because the tone wheel is machined directly onto the axle. If the harness to the sensor has a connector in the wheel well, pull it apart and check the sensor for continuity with an ohmmeter. The resistance value can be found in the shop manual. Check for shorts to ground as well. Repair any bad wiring, remembering that there's plenty of mud, snow and salt water flying around in the wheel well.

TIME'S UP
If you've checked all the sensors and wiring and the ABS light still glows, it's time to throw in the towel and start looking seriously at the ABS controller, an amalgam of hydraulics and electronics that has, as they say, no user-serviceable parts inside. It is, predictably, expensive. Replace it as a last resort.

Read more: ABS Brakes Troubleshooting - How to Troubleshoot Anti Lock Brakes Problems - Popular Mechanics

பேட்டரியில் இயங்கும் வாகனங்களை தயாரிப்பதற்கான தொழில்நுட்பத்தை பெறுவதற்கான முயற்சிகளை அசோக் லேலண்டு மேற்கொண்டுள்ளது. நாட்டின் மிகப்பெரிய கனரக வாகன தயாரிப்பாளராக திகழும் அசோக் லேலண்டு நிறுவனம் தோஸ்ட் மூலம் இலகு ரக வாகன தயாரிப்பிலும் இறங்கியது. அடுத்த தோஸ்ட் பிளாட்பார்மில் பயணிகள் வாகனத்தை அறிமுகப்படுத்தவும் அந்த நிறுவனம் திட்டமிட்டுள்ளது.

அசோக் லேலண்ட் சேசிஸ்,

கனரக வாகனங்களைப் பற்றி சில தகவல்கள் விரைவில்